Friday, July 22, 2011

The view from our hotel breakfast balcony

This is the view at breakfast complete with hungry pigeon. I love that the Acropolis comes up out of a mighty pile of rocks. It really makes one feel small on the 5th story balcony sipping hotel coffee.


- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Walkin around

Athens is sweet! Went to the Acropolis and the theater of Dionysus. I don't really have a description better than grandiose and completely amazing!






Some Doric (for you Dorian) columns are shown in the picture above. These are some pretty danged big structures and I have to respect the architects (and probably their paid laborers) of old.

Anna and I finished off our long tour with a wonderful dinner at a small family restaurant. We both had a cold one with dinner which is sure to aid digestion and sound sleep.






- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

We made it to Athens!!!!!

We basically rode straight to our hotel, no detours and without getting lost! We are ravenous!


- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Location:Υπερείδου,Athens,Greece

How to start your morning

Apparently not all taps have fresh water. This morning I made the coffee with some "safe to drink" water. Anna and I agreed that the coffee tasted off somehow. I then took a little taste of the water used to prepare said coffee and realized where the funny tastes was coming from -salt. The water coming out of the taps is salty water! Ew! Would have been nice for the camp host to tell us about that small difference from EVERY other campground in the world.


- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

And after a long hot ride

A cold brew to cool off my overheated self.


Phffffsst...AAAAH.


- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Greece is beautiful...

Anna and I just ate lunch on a shady bench next to the sea. We cannot resist a little swim. The water looks too nice and the road asphalt is so hot!






Yes, I am having fuuuuuuuuun.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Monday, July 18, 2011

Graffiti for me?

Stopped in a tunnel today to pee and just happened to set my bike by some familiar looking graf. Did someone know I was coming?


- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Location:Peloponnese Greece

Things that have been indispensable!




There are some items which I
have proven their worth on this trip.

Sleeping cocoon by " coolmax"- this thing is better than my sleeping bag! I use it every night and it's perfect for warm weather camping. And it weighs next to nothing!

My new snack pack named "Snacky Cracky" is totally sweet! Yes, I have graduated to full bike dork for sporting one of these food boxes that hangs off the handle bars of the bike, but it is a really fantastic appliance. It can accommodate a map in waterproof housing and all my snacks, sunscreen, repair kit, even a sweater. It is shiny silver with a reflector on the front. The only real drawback is that with some weight on the front of the bike, the steering can have a mind of it's own at the most inconvenient of times usually encouraging the bike to tip over. This has resulted in me receiving all kinds of bruises, scrapes and chain gunk "scars." Most recently i fell over at a standstill when the front wheel decided to start rolling. This happened while waiting to catch the ferry to Pag and of course I had loads of witnesses of my performance. Other than that, Snacky Cracky is great!


The French press. If you know me, I shouldn't need to explain that.

The black truffle olive oil we bought our first day in Croatia. It really spices up every dish!

My MSR dragonfly stove. We only need to get new fuel at the gas station every week or so. Very efficient.

Nutella. There is really little hope of making it anywhere without this condiment. It has saved me more than once from bonking out.

Diva saddle/chamois combo. I have not had one saddle sore this whole trip! It's an amazing first.

The blueblockers have really been my only eye protection the whole trip and have performed wonderfully. Who knew that they would be my only point of fashion on this trip! Nothin says cool like a pair of white rimmed blueblockers!



My camp knife. This thing is still sharp after 3 years of use and cuts tomatoes like butter!

My cheesy hydration system. It holds 3 liters of water and the tube is long enough to reach from inside my saddle bag to my thirsty mouth. It might be a bit safer (say if a big truck passes you while you are reaching down to grab a bottle and you get the swerves from the draft). And it beats having a camelback on your back all day.



- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Location:Europe bike tour

Saturday, July 16, 2011

Good bye Albania

Yesterday was the most scenic riding day in Albania where we rode from Llagora to Serande. We rode down the mountain that we had (not entirely, but mostly) topped out the evening before. The descent was fast, technical, and scenic! Behind us was the mountain we had climbed, before us was the "valley" we expected to cruise through on the way to Serande.



Cruising is NOT how I would describe the rest of our day's ride, in fact quite the opposite.
An accurate description follows. 10% up 10% down 10% up 10% down 10% up 10% down 3 km flat 10% up 10% down 10% up 10% down. You get the picture. It wasn't the hardest riding I have ever done, but on top of 100 F temperatures I would call yesterday extremely challenging.

In the afternoon we were leapfrogging an ice-cream truck that was making local deliveries in the towns we were riding through. First there was the friendly wave, then a honk with thumbs up, and then they wrote "#1" on a paper and held it out the window for Anna and I. After our 5th time passing the truck the driver stopped us, opened a freezer door and gave us each an ice-cream treat! It was an incredibly kind gesture. I gave the driver a high5 and a wave before devouring the goodie.

Prior to making it to our destination we took a wrong turn onto what appeared to be a busy touristy road. When lack of signage confused our sense of direction we asked a conveniently located citizen standing next to his car for directions. He pointed in a general direction, but when we pressed him for specifics the man shooed us away. Only after Anna explained to me what the man had in the trunk of his car did I comprehend why the man wanted us to scram - a semi automatic handgun. Okay!

Following the general directions provided by the gun owner, and after a last 10% hill climb we came to Serande. A sort of dilapidated Miami.



There was no camping here, but we found a reasonably priced hotel with friendly owners. They gave us a super clean room with AC facing the party street. Anna and I did some good people watching while we ate dinner on our balcony. Club Orange across the street provided some cheesy club music entertainment.

After dinner it took about 2 minutes to fall soundly asleep despite the continuous Club Orange beats.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Genti

This is Genti. Anna and I met him at our lodging place last night. In Albania the gas stations are owned by a family and in many cases there is also a bar and a hotel with the gas station. We decided to try out one of these hotel/gas station/bar places in Saver, Albania. We got a beautiful room for 30€ that had a bathtub and free wifi! We cooked our dinner in the parking lot of the hotel and it is there that we met Genti, the gas station attendant.


Genti is a 29 year old Albanian ex-soldier. He learned how to speak english in merely 100 days while working with American soldiers in Tirane. His english was nearly perfect which left Anna and I quite impressed. He is also ranked second in Albania for his weight class in boxing and he runs 10 km a day in the hills. Cool!

Genti helped us understand some Albanian culture and he answered all of our random questions. We all had 2 hours of stimulating conversation at the gas station bar while he worked his 7 pm to 7 am shift. Then around 11 Anna and I got tired and decided to get out money's worth with respect to our hotel room and fell straight to sleep.

Genti is one of the coolest people I have met on this trip and I promised to send him some books so he can keep up on his English. He also is a big fan of animals.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

The Albanian alp

Well, we were going to save this mountain pass for tomorrow after a good nights rest and a solid meal.



In the distance there is a town where we thought the hotel would be, but the map we have is a big fat liar. The hotels are at the top of the mountain pass after a 1000 m climb with the last kilometers are at a 10% grade. Well we made it, but not without some interesting challenges.

The cows and goats in the road that would not move made for a different sort of road obstacle. Then I got attacked by a wild dog which was a first. It didn't bite me, but it did rip my side pannier pocket wide open. I have never felt the need for inflicting violence on an animal until today. I didn't want puppy to come for a second bite, so Anna and I threw rocks at it. Is it bad that I was glad to have scored a hit?
Then, when Anna and I needed a snack to prevent a grand-bonk some of the local youth came to check us out. The youngest boy about 8 years of age, spoke fair a fair deal of English. He asked to try some of my snack then took a gigantic handful which was pretty cute. He also wanted to get my phone number so he could call me when I got home to America and he whipped out his (possibly functional) cell phone to get my number! What a flirt. When his big brother showed up with a hatchet and wanted to ride out bikes snack time was promptly over.

Along the way up the hill we saw an elderly chap selling honey next to his bee hives! Of course we stopped to get some. A delicious jar for 500 lek. He wanted to talk about America and our bikes. He mentioned that Bill Clinton was a swell guy.



The honey man was very sincere and sweet, possibly one of my favorite Albanians aside from Genti.

The ride today in the hills was beautiful!!!

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!
I keep forgetting to buy salt. Too bad it's gross to self recycle and use the salt you sweated out. There's lots of salt in my clothing.


- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Albania day 2

Today we rode through northern Albania. It was mostly flat with a tail wind. Usually we get hills and headwind, so I guess in that respect we had a lucky sort of riding day. We rode through some very poor cities today and saw things that were difficult to take in. There seems to be very little organization where trash and recycling are concerned. There were of course homeless families and animals. Near a meat processing plant there was a dead pig on the side of the road that was so bloated it looked ready to pop.

There are many things to appreciate about Albania too. The people here all seem to be very friendly. While on our bikes Anna and I get lots of waves and honks from the locals. Even if they drive a bit on the fast side, the local drivers generally give a friendly honk to let you know they are passing and then lots of room. And while off the bikes, the people we meet are quite pleasant. The always inquire about are trip and give us a thumbs up (even if we have no idea what we are taking about). Fresh fruits, veggies, and eggs can be purchased for a steal at any of a thousand roadside stands.




I am on a gravel road. I was not so excited when this picture was taken. My spirits lifted when I realized the gravel section was only 1 or 2 km.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

When I saved the tortoise

I have seen lots of animals on this trip. Most of these animals have been squashed by cars and are nearly indistinguishable. Except for the hedgehogs; those are easy to spot, sadly. Today a little miracle happened, I saw a live animal! It was a tortoise about 8 inches in length walkin' across the road. Obviously this little guy was going to get squished by one of those nutter Montenegro drivers so I decided to move the tortoise to the safe side of the street where it could walk for a long time without coming back to the road. It felt pretty cool to possibly save a cute little animal from a sad ending.


- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Location:The last 5 km of Montenegro

I wasn't joking about the heat!

Anna and I are stopping for a siesta and lunch snack in Albania. So far everyone here is courteous and friendly to the two American cyclists (this is in stark contrast to Montenegro, where we were treated quite shabbily by motorists).


If there are any challenges to mention concerning Albania, then they are the following; it is so frigging hot and all the young male drivers want our affections, so there's lots honking. Let's see how the next three days adventures in Albania unfold!

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

How do you know when it's 100 outside?

You stop wearing black.
You worship the slightest breeze.
You are covered in slippery sweat.
You get a heat rash under your cycling chamois and wear bathing suit bottoms instead.
The locals tell you to take a ferry instead.
You have to take a "sweat break" an hour after lunch.
You stop caring if you get a hot shower at night and are perfectly happy to have a cold one.
You have to drink a gallon of water per day.
You have to eat your snickers bar with a spoon.



Oh, and there's Montenegro in the background. We climbed some of those hills yesterday in the 100 deg heat. It was a challenge, but not impossible with enough water and chocolate.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Anna drinks water!

For years I have been telling Anna to carry more water. There has been friendly resistance where Anna says, "you know me, I don't need much water."

I believe that Anna is about to change her ways. This 100 F weather has inspired Anna to carry 5 liters of water on the bike today.



Go Anna! It's about darn time.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Mokalo to Zaton Croatia

Today was very hilly and hot as we made our way across the Peljesac peninsula towards Dubrovnik. There was a 15, 14, 12% hill as well as many 8-10% grades. I have no idea how many feet of climbing there was, but I would imagine quite a lot. I had to ride in my bikini top up some of the hills to stay cool. In the heat of the day temperatures were for sure at least 95 degrees! Oh, and I drank a gallon of water-no joke!




I only took one picture today in our shady lunch spot (screw the scenic hilltop picture...it's too damned hot). The creepy little croatian coke boy on Anna's drink does not make me that thirsty.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Surprise!

So you thought the hills were behind you in the alps...think again! These little islands are just a bunch of steep hills! Today and tomorrow will be full of climbing awesomeness.





See that road in the distance? Anna and I are all over that!
- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Location:Korcula, Croatia

Another reason Croatia is awesome

These folks are serious about chocolate.



This entire side of the grocery isle is chocolate bars. The other side of the isle is fancy chocolate!

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Split to Korcula

Yesterday we decided that we would take a ferry from Split to Korcula island. We had been advised by a very nice couple, Frank and Kim, that this island was spectacular and quite natural. Being that Anna and I enjoy nature and traveling off the beaten path a bit, we decided this was a place for us.
We woke up a 6 am (a record) and broke camp in record time (we definitely could have won the camping world championships) an navigated our way to the car ferry in Split. Without the aid of street signs and only stopping to ask one person for instructions, we miraculously found our way in the second largest city of croatia.
Imagine finding the right harbor in a harbor town the size of Portland with no street signs- this would approximate our navigational adventure.



That big ol city in the background is Split, but the picture doesn't even show the whole thing.

We will be on the ferry for a 3 hour ride during which time we will probably reapply sunblock four times to avoid the "red-tan" that is so easy to attain in the Adriatic.

Thanks everyone for your comments! I really enjoy reading them.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Random questions and possible answers

Q: why does my chamois smell so bad? I don't smell nearly that bad.

Q: why does coffee taste so danged good? Especially coffee made in a little camp French press!

Q: if you're European is it really socially acceptable to do any of the following wearing a tiny spandex speedo? Walk your children around camp in a stroller, wash your car, encourage your children to also wear a speedo, play badminton in the middle of the camp roadway (and you clearly are on steroids because there's not much in the front), go grocery shopping, ride a bike, change into a different speedo in the parking lot?

Q: what is a seagull?
A: a seagull is a bird that lives all over the place and wants to eat your food. The seagull will stare longingly at you and your food hoping to get a taste. Throwing rocks in the direction of the seagull will sometimes make it scram!
Acting much like a seagull is the pervert at the nude beach. Disregarding the etiquette of the nude beach the seagull will stare at you with all his clothes on while you undress and then pick a spot unreasonably close to yours, get naked and continue to gawk at you while all giving you a nightmarish glimpse of the full frontside of his body. This kind of seagull will also scram when you throw rocks at it.

Q: Can one be sustained on nutella and crackers alone?



- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Location:Camp in Pakostane

Failblog Norwegians

I wish I could have taken a picture, but I wasn't quite clever enough at the time. Anna and I rode by a family of three very very rosy blond folks on their bikes today. We stopped to see if they were ok. They were a little thirsty as they had run out of water, so Anna and I shared what we could. The father of the two children was dresses rather peculiarly, however, donning only his heather grey underpants! It was admittedly quite hot, but surely a pair of shorts could have allowed for sufficient air flow? Really though this guy needed full coverage because he was beet red all over ( also indicating that he'd been riding in his indies for a few days). This guy had some pretty strong style to say the least.



- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Camping on Pag

Sometimes camping is really tough, but not tonight. Our tent is 10 feet from the Adriatic sea! Have to cook dinner and eat before having a night swim!






- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Another reason to visit Croatia

The reasons to visit this beautiful country are revealing themselves frequently! One more reason- beer in a vending machine!



- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Jake the snake in front of bakar

Cute little town with a church tower in the middle. Anna and I are on our way to the island of Krk.


On the way to Krk island we had to cross a huge bridge that had a pedestrian path (phew)! We had a quick pose on the sign for good luck!



We are taking a ferry to Rab island at 20:30 and will camp in San Marino imperial campground. Anna and I are both a little too excited for rice and truffle oil for dinner this evening. Tomorrow we are going to spend a day on the island and catch up on some bike maintenance and have a swim in some crystal clear Adriatic sea water.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Beach on Rab island

Anna and I are taking a scheduled day off of riding to explore the small island of Rab. We are camping for two nights at San Marino Autokamp in Lopar. Today we caught up on some much needed laundry duties before heading out to the beach. There is a touristy beach about 200m from our tent, but Anna and I decided to venture to a less visited beach, which also seems to be a nudist beach.



I have a pretty good bike tan at the moment (meaning I'm super pale where the bike shorts/tank top cover) and I really stick out like an outsider. Luckily the nudists seem to keep to themselves and they ignore the American tourist.
The water is refreshingly cool, crystal clear and calm. In a moment I'll venture back out for a relaxing float in the Adriatic.

p.s. Dont try to hike in really cheap flip flops because then you'll have to improvise something nutty for the hole back to camp!



- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Friday, July 1, 2011

Croatia is awesome!

Just did a bit of climbing and we have about 13 km to go until camp. We crossed Istria point today and will camp in Draga. Anna and I got some truffle oil to jazz up our dinner with tonight!



- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Good bye strange city

This city's intricate architecture is amazing from a distance and up close. From the waterbus you can see the grand nature of the statues embedded in the sides of the buildings and walking on the street you will see their faces and expressions. In the waves you can sometimes begin to see the foundation of the city.


This is one of the strangest places I have ever visited. It has a sort of forced existence where the historical importance of the structures is keeping it alive. Dirt, toilet paper, mail and every necessity has to be shipped in. It seems that if there were not constant attention, Venice would crumble into the ocean.

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!

Breakfast of champions

[Croissant+espresso]*every day= hill power.



Today Anna and I are taking "the Prince of Venice" catamaran to Porec, Croatia. Our ride tomorrow will take us through the Istrian peninsula with many miles of turquoise seascape (hopefully).

- Posted from somewhere with my iPod!